Thailand is a country in South-East Asia with coasts on the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. It borders Myanmar (Burma) to the north-west, Laos to the north-east, Cambodia to the south-east and Malaysia to the south. Bangkok is the capital of Thailand and by far its largest city with an estimated population of over 10 million.
With great food, a tropical climate, fascinating culture and, hey, great beaches, Thailand is a magnet for travelers the world over.
Thailand is the most popular tourist destination in South-East Asia, and for a reason. Exotic yet safe and largely hassle-free, cheap yet equipped with every modern amenity you need, there is something for every interest and every price bracket, from beachfront backpacker bungalows to some of the best luxury hotels in the world. And despite the heavy flow of tourism, Thailand retains its quintessential Thainess, with a culture and history all its own and a carefree people famed for their smiles and their fun-seeking sanuk lifestyle.
This is not to say that Thailand doesn’t have its downsides, including the considerable growing pains of an economy where an agricultural laborer is lucky to earn $1 per day while the nouveau riche cruise past in their BMWs, and a highly visible sex tourism industry. Bangkok, the capital, is notorious for its traffic jams and rampant development has wrecked much of once-beautiful Pattaya and Phuket. In heavily touristed areas, some lowlifes have made scamming tourists into an art form, but in Thailand as anywhere the old adage is true – if it’s too good to be true, it probably is.
Thai culture is heavily influenced by Buddhism. However, unlike the Buddhist countries of East Asia, Thailand’s Buddhists follow the Therevada school, which is arguably closer to its Indian roots and places a heavier emphasis on monasticism. Thai temples known as wats, resplendent with gold and easily identifiable thanks to their ornate, multicolored, pointy roofs are ubiquitous and becoming an orange-robed monk for a short period, typically the three-month rainy season, is a common rite of passage for young Thai boys and men.
Some traditional arts popular in Thailand include traditional Thai dancing and music, based on religious rituals and court entertainment. Famously brutal Thai boxing (muay Thai), derived from the military training of Thai warriors, is undoubtedly the country’s best known indigenous sport.
Just under 14 degrees North of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, the first things that impress many visitors are the heat, the congestion both on streets and sidewalks, the pollution inherent to rapid development, the squalor that accompanies a gaping chasm between rich and poor, and the irrepressible smiles of the Thais. Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe, more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants — you’ll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Thai cuisine is singular, justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok, for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
Bangkok is a popular backpack destination, with places like Khao San Road teeming with GAP types. The reason for the popularity is that Bangkok offers low cost accomodation for as little as 500 baht per night and meals for as little as 35 baht. There are also many low cost bars and plenty of shopping.
The vast majority of visitors to Bangkok are non-backpackers, ranging from rich Japanese and Europeans to middle class Indians. Bangkok offers something for everybody. It has posh gourmet restauraunts, spectacular 5 star hotels and upscale malls; it also has exotic night markets, mid priced eateries, and an excellent transport system that covers all the important tourist spots.
Walking in Bangkok during the day is normally only for the very enthusiastic and requires dodging in and out of air-conditioned establishments, but this stroll through Chinatown is something most people should be able to cope with. It’s in the shade almost all the way along, but it is quite crowded, so keep your valuables close! Sampeng Lane runs right through Chinatown and is a narrow little lane crowded with storefronts and stalls. Most people are on foot, although you will encounter the odd motorbike slowly working its way along. Unless you’re keen on fabrics you might not buy anything here, but it is a very atmospheric place and quite different to the rest of inner-city Bangkok. Once you’ve finished strolling, you could take a tuk-tuk to the next place, you’ll probably need a sit-down!
Go see the Grand Palace in the historic Rattanakosin area of Bangkok, next to the Chao Phraya river. It’s quite stunning! The architecture is a great mix of Thai and European styles, and if you can only see one sight in Bangkok, this should be it. The lovely Temple of the Emerald Buddha is in the same complex – don’t forget to allow enough time there too. It’s open everyday between 8.30am and 3.30pm; there’s an entry fee of 200 baht, but you can get into Vimanmek Teak Palace on the same ticket. Although the royal family no longer lives here, it’s still considered a Royal Palace and you’ll need to dress respectfully; no sandals, shorts or bare shoulders. The main entrance is on Thanon Na Phra Lang (Thanon = street), on the north side near Sanam Luang. Beware the nearby touts and tuk-tuk drivers who may tell you that it’s closed – normally this is a scam to try and get you go to a gem or gift shop where they will get a commission.
The food alone is really reason enough for a trip to Thailand. Curries, fruit shakes, stir fries, fresh fish made a zillion ways – and that’s just the beginning. Food in Thailand can be as cheap and easy as 20 baht phat thai (Thai fried noodles) cooked at a street stall or as expensive and complicated as a $100 ten-course meal by a royal chef served in one of Bangkok’s 5 star hotels.
Since most backpackers will be sticking closer to the first than the second, one of the great things about Thailand is that food from stalls and tiny sidewalk restaurants is usually quite safe. Unlike some Asian countries, travellers should worry more about overeating or too much curry spice than about unclean kitchens and bad food. In fact, street restaurants, where you can see what you’ll get and everything is cooked on the spot (usually in a pool of germ- and diet-killing vegetable oil) can be the safest option.